The textile industry has a long, complex and non-transparent supply chain and faces many sustainability challenges: water and energy consumption, pollution and greenhouse gas emissions, as well as human rights violations. As a purchaser, you can give an important push in the direction of a circular textile chain, with respect for people and the environment. Unfortunately, there is no ready-made solution (yet). That is why it is important to create space for innovation within and with the supply chain. A strategy with clear and realistic priorities for your organization makes it easier to make choices for your specifications. On this page we offer some guidelines and examples for the circular purchase of work and company clothing, PPE and linen.
When reducing non-renewable virgin input, as a purchaser, you should not only focus on fuel consumption during transportation but also consider the use of non-fossil fuels during maintenance. However, choosing the most sustainable fiber for textiles is not straightforward. Besides the environmental impact of fiber production, this choice also affects the performance, maintenance, and lifespan of the textile. You can find more information in the Motiv purchase guide. Therefore, it's important to engage in discussions with the supply chain and set priorities that align with your organization.
For work materials, there are guidelines and standards related to general product safety (2001/95/EC) and personal protective equipment (EU 2016/425), which, of course, take priority over circularity. Include these in your specifications and discuss them with your prevention advisor if needed. You can find more information on the Sioen website, where they explain the difference between chemical and mechanical recycling of coated technical textile materials.
A good tracing process follows the textile product from purchase to the end of its life cycle and provides insight into factors such as the number of washes, repairs, lifespan, and user experience. Set clear criteria for when a product may be discarded, considering not only strict safety regulations but also user satisfaction (at a minimum level). Based on this data, specifications can be adjusted for future purchases or as part of a growth trajectory with your current supplier.
For personalized clothing, it is essential to prevent misuse and reputational damage. Through your monitoring process, you can recover clothing from employees leaving the organization. Additionally, consider the (industrial) removability of logos in the design, and request guarantees from the processor for overprinting or recycling to prevent any misuse.
Involve users in identifying their needs, testing product options, and obtaining their feedback on usage. Clearly communicate the circular choices being made. Ensure a simple logistics system so that users can easily follow the specified flows and optimize the use of textiles.
Circular textiles are still in active development. Therefore, it is important to collaborate with the supply chain and encourage innovation. You can do this by launching a Request for Information (RFI) or market dialogue in a timely manner. Additionally, leave enough freedom in material selection in your tender and describe your needs at a functional level. Suppliers, processors, and laundries can provide information on recent developments and the advantages and disadvantages of certain fiber choices. The procedure you choose and the duration of the contract are also crucial factors to consider.
There are numerous labels and standards for textile products and laundry and take-back services. An overview of these labels and standards can be found on the Ecolabel Index website, in this publication, and in the EU GPP criteria. The FIDO Guide for Sustainable Purchasing also provides an interesting overview. When selecting labels and standards, it is crucial to consider the level of independence and the conducted controls to determine their value and credibility.
In your specifications, you can include labels as technical requirements while also allowing for an equivalent certification. This enables suppliers to demonstrate that they meet the criteria of the label. However, it is essential to be selective in including labels and norms and align your choices with the priorities of your organization.
Using labels offers advantages, such as the assurance that the specified conditions are met. One drawback is that obtaining a label is often expensive and time-consuming, which may exclude smaller companies and innovative solutions. Additionally, label provisions are often tailored to traditional products on the market. To address this, you may consider allowing certification after the contract is awarded, potentially with a penalty clause to ensure compliance.
Forced labor and human rights violations are unfortunately a real problem in the textile sector. This is obviously an ethical issue for the purchasing organization, but it can also cause image damage if abuses in the supply chain are exposed. Adress this by using due diligence clauses in your tenders.
The public procurement law obliges awarding the contract to the most economically advantageous bidder (MEAT). In this regard, the cost can be calculated based on the product's life cycle, known as the Life Cycle Cost. This includes not only the acquisition costs but also the operating and disposal costs (Total Cost of Ownership), as well as the external costs for the environment and society.
For textiles, maintenance constitutes a significant part of the total cost of ownership. This includes activities such as washing, repairs, and specialized services like sterilization, water repellent treatment, and distribution. Therefore, it is definitely worth considering these aspects in the comparison. The Higg index provides a set of tools to measure the sustainability impact throughout the entire value chain, enabling evaluation of external costs as well. You can find more information on the bAwear-score website and the Creamoda website.
Information about circular procument and example cases per specific product category.