The textile industry has a long, complex and non-transparent supply chain and faces many sustainability challenges: water and energy consumption, pollution and greenhouse gas emissions, as well as human rights violations. As a purchaser, you can give an important push in the direction of a circular textile chain, with respect for people and the environment. Unfortunately, there is no ready-made solution (yet). That is why it is important to create space for innovation within and with the supply chain. A strategy with clear and realistic priorities for your organization makes it easier to make choices for your specifications. On this page we offer some guidelines and examples for the circular purchase of work and company clothing, PPE and linen.
It is not easy to choose the most durable fiber for textiles. In addition to the environmental impact of the production of the fiber, this choice also affects the performance, maintenance and lifespan of the textile. You can read more about this in the Motiv purchase guide. That is why it is important to have dialogue with the supply chain partner and to set priorities tailored to your organization.
For work materials, there are guidelines and standards on general product safety (2001/95/EC) and personal protective equipment (EU 2016/425) which naturally take precedence over circularity. Include these in your specifications and, if necessary, discuss this with your prevention advisor first.
A good monitoring process follows the textile product from purchase to end of life and provides insight into, among other things, the number of washes, repairs, lifespan and user experience. Set clear criteria for when a product may be discarded. Based on this data, specifications can be adjusted for a next purchase or in the context of a growth trajectory with your current supplier.
For personalized clothing, it is important to prevent abuse and damage to company image. Through your monitoring process, you recover clothing from employees who leave the organization. But also take into account the (industrial) removability of logos in the design or ask the processor for guarantees of destruction by overprinting or recycling.
Involve users in identifying needs, testing product options and getting their feedback on usage. Communicate clearly about the circular choices that are made. Also ensure a simple logistics system, so that it is easy for the user to use the foreseen flows correctly and the textiles are used optimally.
Circular textiles are still in full development. That is why it is important to work together with the supply chain and to stimulate innovation. You can do this by launching an RFI or market dialogue in due time. In addition, leave sufficient freedom in the choice of materials in your tender and describe your needs more functionally. The suppliers, processors and laundries can provide information on recent developments and the advantages and disadvantages of certain fiber choices. The placement procedure you choose and the term of the contract are also important.
There are dozens of labels and standards for textile products and washing and return services, an overview can be found on this website, and in the EU GPP criteria. The value and credibility of a label or certificate depends on the level of independence and the checks that are carried out. You can include labels in your specifications as a technical condition, if you mention 'or an equivalent quality mark'. This means that a supplier can demonstrate that he can also guarantee the criteria of the label through a dossier. Be selective in the labels and/or standards you include and base yourself on the priorities of your organization. The advantage of using labels is that the purchaser is sure that the conditions are complied with. The disadvantage is that it excludes smaller companies and innovative solutions, because obtaining a label is often expensive and time-consuming. You can overcome this by allowing the certification to be obtained only after the contract has been awarded, possibly with a penalty clause to guarantee compliance.
Forced labor and human rights violations are unfortunately a real problem in the textile sector. This is obviously an ethical issue for the purchasing organization, but it can also cause image damage if abuses in the supply chain are exposed. Adress this by using due diligence clauses in your tenders.
Ppublic procurement law obliges to award to the most economically advantageous bidder (MEAT). The cost price may be calculated on the basis of the life cycle cost of the product. In addition to the acquisition cost, the operating and disposal costs are taken into account (Total Cost of Ownership). But also the external costs for the environment and society. For textiles, maintenance is a very large part of the total cost of ownership. This includes washing and repair, but also specialized services such as sterilization, water-repellent treatments and distribution. So it is definitely worth including this in the comparison. The Higg index offers a series of tools that allow to measure the sustainability impact throughout the value chain and thus to compare the external costs.
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European Textiles & Workwear Market The role of Public Procurement in making textiles circular
Information about circular procument and example cases per specific product category.